Having safely negotiated the exit from Loch Moidart, we headed north again towards the Knoydart peninsula, regarded by many as mainland Britain's most dramatic and unspoilt wilderness area. On the way, we dropped in to Mallaig, the busy ferry port for Skye, where we picked up water and provisions. Once safely moored in the newly opened and sheltered marina (where they charge £12 just to tie up!), we enjoyed an unusual burst of hot sunny summer weather. So intense was the sun indeed that one crew member was prompted to purchase a sun hat.
Dodging out between ferries, we then aimed for the south side of the Knoydart peninsula, specifically Inverie on the north shore of the sheltered Loch Nevis (meaning Loch of Heaven - the Loch of Hell is to the north of the peninsula). Located in this tiny hamlet is mainland Britain's most remote pub, the Old Forge. The only way to reach it is by boat or by hiking 18 miles overland. It is renowned for the Seafood Platter. Though intended to be consumed by a single person, the Skipper and Mate shared one and both felt replete afterwards! Inverie also boasts a unique method of wheel clamping ... Scottish style.
We waved farewell to our erstwhile crew and then pointed westwards to the southern shore of the Isle of Skye. We will miss their good company and deep knowledge of the area. The Skipper wanted to revisit Loch Scavaig; he was last there in 1994 and remembered it as being most dramatic. Set deep in the cirque of the Black Cuillins of Skye, it is an awe-inspiring place - wild and totally remote from civilisation.
The anchorage, even in settled weather, is subject to violent downdraughts (or katabatic winds as they are known in the trade) which are said to be capable of 'blowing an anchor out'. After our experience in St Mawes earlier on this trip, we were keen not to let that happen! However we were determined to go ashore to see Loch Coruisk, a freshwater loch just above sea level which lies deep within a horseshoe of high peaks.
"I see no ships ..."
Back on board, whilst having dinner the boat was pushed back and forth and round and round like a cork on the water. Unsurprisingly we decided to clear out from Loch Scavaig before the night fell. Luckily, being the longest day, we had plenty of time to execute Plan B. Off we set a couple of miles down Soay Sound to the secluded and very sheltered anchorage of Soay Harbour on Soay island. Only one other boat was in there and we were all tucked up by 23:00, feeling much more secure.
Anchor security and peace of mind, especially in these remote areas, has been much improved by the use of the 'snubber'.
Here it is being raised after the night in Soay. It is a half-hundredweight (56 lbs or 25 kg) cast iron weight that has been kindly provided to us by good neighbours Louise and John in home village of Cawton. It is slid down the anchor chain on a long line so it sits on the sea bed close to the boat. When the boat's position shifts due to wind or tide, the anchor chain is restrained from moving (i.e. helps to direction the pull on the chain so the anchor itself stays in position) by the excellent snubber.
Yesterday, Friday we sailed up the south-west coast of Skye to Loch Harport, home of the Talisker distillery.
Took the tour, tasted a wee dram of the 10-year old single malt (one of our favourites) and then repaired to the boat anchored just off the shore. Enjoyed a wonderful evening relaxing in the sun on deck viewing the other side of the Cuillin ridge. I have been reliably informed that 'cuillin' in Gaelic means 'holly'; it seems a very apt name for this mountain ridge.
Today, Saturday, we head west again and then north along the north-west coast of Skye, intending to overnight in or near Loch Dunvegan. Then plan to pass to north of Skye and back eastwards to the mainland, making landfall at Gairloch. Weather nice and settled at present so making the most of it! Worryingly though, the lack of rain has meant that local distillers of the amber liquid are having to cut back on production, some distilleries (Tobermory) stopping altogether until more rain falls.
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