Yesterday we returned to boat with customary sprig of heather from the hill, to show we had sailed past Ardnamurchan Point (most westerly point on British mainland you will remember) and tied it to the pulpit, just to make sure that Follyfin did not feel left out.
Another wonderfully calm sea as we embarked from Eigg. Only downside to this settled spell of weather is that there is no wind for sailing. Still you can't have everything ... the overnight rain had cleared and the low cloud lifted as we headed back towards Glenuig Bay on the mainland. Suddenly, around 12.30, a Minke whale surfaced about 35 metres from the boat and swam near us for several minutes - a majestic sight - but unfortunately did not surface long enough for a photo. Anchored in Glenuig for lunch and a quick trip ashore to the excellent smokery recommended by our very own local guides. Then we were off again, south this time for a special visit to Loch Moidart and its Castle Tioram, a picturesque ruin, which stands on a tidal islet within the inner loch. [Our tour guides informed us that the main island in this loch - Shona- is owned by none other than Richard Branson's sister.] Correct timing of entry to this sea loch was vital as the tide 'fetches' in and out at great speed and even in a moderate wind can stop a yacht under power. In addition the entry channel is strewn with rocks so accurate pilotage is essential. The anxiety associated with these challenges was well worth it though - it is probably the most beautiful anchorage we will ever experience, and certainly the most beautiful so far on this trip.
Anchored by 17.45, wasted no time in getting the dinghy out and going ashore to explore the ruin. Castle Tioram (pronounced Cheerum) was built by Macdonald of Clanranald in the 14th century, and was once home to the clan chief Allan of Clanranald, who ordered it to be burnt when he left for the Jacobite rebellion in 1715, in order to prevent it falling into arch enemy Campbell hands.
Then, in the warm evening sunshine, we ventured along the delightful rocky path along the south shore of the loch, known as the Silver Trail.
Back on board, we dined on deck at 21.00 still enjoying the evening sun. A simple of meal of delicious hot-smoked salmon, 'caught' earlier in the day, new potatoes and salad followed by equally delicious smoked cheeses (from guess where). What more could one wish for?
Arose just after dawn to capture the castle in a different light,
and then we were off early, to catch the 'slack' tide through the maze of rocks at the entrance. It is another wonderful morning, also being enjoyed by the resident seal colony, of which we saw about 20 individuals large and small.
Now heading north again towards Inverie Bay, via Mallaig to restock with water and provisions. Sea birds and seals viewed in profusion as we go. We are even managing to sail today in only 5 knots of wind as it is in the right direction. It's slow but very peaceful!
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