The Turning Point

Two days bad weather delayed us in Kinlochbervie Harbour, and were mainly spent on replenishing fuel and water supplies, and reading up and planning the next part of our journey, with the occasional tuning in to the goings-on in SW19 of course. That Nadal/Rosol match was a real cliff-hanger. Although Kinlochbervie is not the most beautiful of harbours to be stuck in, there are compensations, not least of which is the donated fresh fish referred to in the last post on this blog but also the very friendly fishermen. The Skipper was delighted to be given complimentary tours of a couple of these splendid high tech trawlers and will be pleased to relay all facts and figures to interested parties, e.g. they run their vessels' engines continuously, only shutting down for 2 weeks in the year for maintenance work. This port is one of the top 10 in the UK for the size of catch, landing over 100,000 tons of fish per month. Now here's the killer: the great majority is exported to France and Spain. They are magnificent craft though.

The weather cleared on Friday evening so we explored the surrounding countryside and did a spot of beachcombing into the bargain. You can just spot the Skipper climbing the hill clutching a stray orange buoy, for which he no doubt has a use in mind.

It was an altogether beautiful evening. And this far north the evening lasts well into the night ... the next photo was taken at about 10 p.m.

Today, Saturday, Follyfin pointed her bow northwards to make the final 14 mile push to the most north-westerly point on the British mainland: Cape Wrath.

Now one would be forgiven for thinking that the name of this impressive headland referred to the turbulent waters that swirl around it - caused by the meeting of the Atlantic Ocean with the North sea. But no - in fact 'Wrath' is a Gaelic word meaning ... 'turning point'. Before reaching the Cape, we passed another impressive, free-standing rock stack named Am Buachaille ('The Shepherd'), looking for all the world like a giant tower of children's building blocks.

Now we are heading to Orkney, the most northerly point of our tour, looking forward to seeing with our own eyes some of the very well preserved prehistoric remains, and to visiting Scapa Flow.

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Poised for lift-off

Calling in for water in Gairloch Harbour, Flowerdale Bay, we were escorted by three friendly dolphins. Having been here for land-based holidays (spotted our friends' house on the hill there), it felt strange to arrive by boat!

The weather improved as the afternoon wore on but without much wind, sailing was difficult. Lucky we have an engine on board. However the landscape all around us was magnificant so we were never bored. The Scottish Highlands are beautiful, but even more so from the sea.

With our stomachs rumbling, we decided not to journey down to Inverewe at the head of the 7-mile long Loch Ewe. We have visited the famous gardens there before so instead we anchored at Mellon Charles on the north coast of the loch, about 2 miles in from the mouth. With only a few houses in the bay, we saw no other humans but had several scores of common terns for company, nesting on a nearby disused pier. They make a wonderful sight (and not-so-wonderful sound) when all at once they take off and swoop round the area seemingly in one body. Fortunately they quietened down overnight.

Tuesday morning dawned sunny and calm. The loch was like a millpond and the highlands looked magnificent. We were treated to many views of the mountains as we sailed past the entrances to Gruinard Bay with its eponymous island of anthrax fame, Little Loch Broom, and Loch Broom at the head of which lies the north-west's largest town Ullapool.

Then we found ourselves amongst The Summer Isles, a very attractive group of islands on the N side of the approach to Loch Broom. With the sun shining and a gentle breeze blowing, where could be better for a lunch stop? Finding a sheltered bay surrounded by small islands (therefore difficult to capture on camera), we dropped the anchor and rested in warm sunshine, taking our cue from the seals nearby. After 2 hours, we thought we had better move on towards Lochinver, our overnight stop. Just as well we did as within minutes of emerging from the islands, the sky darkened, the wind got up and rain began to fall. The weather up here can change so quickly ... the Mate was on watch as the wind force increased to 6 (22-27 knots) and Follyfin heeled over ...

Eventually tied up at pontoon at 8 p.m. Now we had arrived in Sutherland and the remote hills of Assynt where there are some extraordinarily-shaped peaks, such as Suilven - the sugar loaf. Regrettably it was never clear enough for me to get a good photo. In 'town', discovered the excellent Larder Bistro which specialises in homemade pies. We were just in time to tuck into tasty salmon pie served with mash and fresh veg ... nectar to our weary selves!
Yesterday, Wednesday 27th, we pressed on in drizzle and under grey skies, 30 miles northwards towards Kinlochbervie, our jumping off point for Cape Wrath, still amazed by the surrounding scenery. Passed close to Stoer Point where stands the Old Man of Stoer - a colossal rock pillar 200 feet high. Another Minke whale was also briefly sighted as well as dolphins and numerous seabirds, including what we think was an Arctic Skua.

Others had also arrived with the same plan in mind, so the small pontoon was overcrowded. Instead we opted for the harbour wall at the invitation of the harbour master. This means climbing up and down a 3-4 metre vertical ladder with metal rungs to access dry land; going up not too bad but descending is another matter, not undertaken lightly by the Mate anyway! Thursday morning and we are still here, along with all the other boats, pinned down by forecasted high winds and possible gale. Looks calm enough from here but rounding Cape Wrath is veritably not a piece of cake so we are waiting for a weather window before we attempt it.

There are benefits though: although it is impossible to purchase fresh fish here, or in Lochinver, the two main fishing ports on the north-west coast, you can talk to the fishermen on their vessels when they return from sea. And they are very generous with their surplus catch, so we have fresh haddock and two hake to keep us going for the next few days!

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Wester Ross - back on the mainland

The high cliffs and rock formations on the south-west and north-west coasts of Skye make this area visually awe-inspiring, especially from the sea. Leaving Loch Harport, one passes 'The Castle' rock complete with turrets and ramparts. Soon afterwards heading first west and then north, the eye is drawn to three pinnacles of rock (actually basalt) standing isolated in the sea just off Idrigill Point - the so-called 'Macleod's Maidens'. The inner and tallest maiden stands a magnificent 60 metres high.

Turning the corner at Neist Point with its splendid light house, one is confronted by yet more spectacular cliffs on this very exposed shore.

Some more splendid basalt columns were passed en route to Stein (no relation to Rick of Padstow fame!), a tiny and little known village at the southern end of Loch Bay (just to the north of the better known Loch Dunvegan), on the SW shore of the Waternish peninsula. Although the inn the came well recommended by daughter Laurel who had visited earlier in the year, we were too tired to go ashore to sample its fare. That will have to wait for another visit.

Sunday morning saw us making an early start to catch the NE-going stream up The Minch, where stream run strong between Skye and the Outer Hebrides. Noticed the Scots answer to Durdle Door on the way.

Unfortunately time did not allow further exploration of either Skye or the Outer Hebrides, just 12 miles west across The Minch ... another reason to revisit this wonderful cruising area. The wind from the north was blowing force 4 so we had an excellent sail east towards Loch Gairloch, our next resting place. Badachro, a very attractive little village with a wonderful pub and visited many times previously by us from the land, was our intended overnight anchorage spot. However so many other boats were moored or anchored in there with the same idea, we decided to go round the corner to Loch Shieldaig and pick up a mooring there instead. Much more peaceful and only a short walk to the pub.

Galley slave can report minor triumph: successful bread baking using warm engine compartment for proving the dough. Only slightly sagging on the port side!

Now we are off to explore Loch Ewe and revisit Inverewe Gardens before heading north towards Cape Wrath and the Orkneys. Hope to be up in Stromness by end this week if all goes well.

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Knoydart and Skye

Having safely negotiated the exit from Loch Moidart, we headed north again towards the Knoydart peninsula, regarded by many as mainland Britain's most dramatic and unspoilt wilderness area. On the way, we dropped in to Mallaig, the busy ferry port for Skye, where we picked up water and provisions. Once safely moored in the newly opened and sheltered marina (where they charge £12 just to tie up!), we enjoyed an unusual burst of hot sunny summer weather. So intense was the sun indeed that one crew member was prompted to purchase a sun hat.
Dodging out between ferries, we then aimed for the south side of the Knoydart peninsula, specifically Inverie on the north shore of the sheltered Loch Nevis (meaning Loch of Heaven - the Loch of Hell is to the north of the peninsula). Located in this tiny hamlet is mainland Britain's most remote pub, the Old Forge. The only way to reach it is by boat or by hiking 18 miles overland. It is renowned for the Seafood Platter. Though intended to be consumed by a single person, the Skipper and Mate shared one and both felt replete afterwards! Inverie also boasts a unique method of wheel clamping ... Scottish style.

We waved farewell to our erstwhile crew and then pointed westwards to the southern shore of the Isle of Skye. We will miss their good company and deep knowledge of the area. The Skipper wanted to revisit Loch Scavaig; he was last there in 1994 and remembered it as being most dramatic. Set deep in the cirque of the Black Cuillins of Skye, it is an awe-inspiring place - wild and totally remote from civilisation.

The anchorage, even in settled weather, is subject to violent downdraughts (or katabatic winds as they are known in the trade) which are said to be capable of 'blowing an anchor out'. After our experience in St Mawes earlier on this trip, we were keen not to let that happen! However we were determined to go ashore to see Loch Coruisk, a freshwater loch just above sea level which lies deep within a horseshoe of high peaks.

"I see no ships ..."

Back on board, whilst having dinner the boat was pushed back and forth and round and round like a cork on the water. Unsurprisingly we decided to clear out from Loch Scavaig before the night fell. Luckily, being the longest day, we had plenty of time to execute Plan B. Off we set a couple of miles down Soay Sound to the secluded and very sheltered anchorage of Soay Harbour on Soay island. Only one other boat was in there and we were all tucked up by 23:00, feeling much more secure.
Anchor security and peace of mind, especially in these remote areas, has been much improved by the use of the 'snubber'.

Here it is being raised after the night in Soay. It is a half-hundredweight (56 lbs or 25 kg) cast iron weight that has been kindly provided to us by good neighbours Louise and John in home village of Cawton. It is slid down the anchor chain on a long line so it sits on the sea bed close to the boat. When the boat's position shifts due to wind or tide, the anchor chain is restrained from moving (i.e. helps to direction the pull on the chain so the anchor itself stays in position) by the excellent snubber.

Yesterday, Friday we sailed up the south-west coast of Skye to Loch Harport, home of the Talisker distillery.

Took the tour, tasted a wee dram of the 10-year old single malt (one of our favourites) and then repaired to the boat anchored just off the shore. Enjoyed a wonderful evening relaxing in the sun on deck viewing the other side of the Cuillin ridge. I have been reliably informed that 'cuillin' in Gaelic means 'holly'; it seems a very apt name for this mountain ridge.

Today, Saturday, we head west again and then north along the north-west coast of Skye, intending to overnight in or near Loch Dunvegan. Then plan to pass to north of Skye and back eastwards to the mainland, making landfall at Gairloch. Weather nice and settled at present so making the most of it! Worryingly though, the lack of rain has meant that local distillers of the amber liquid are having to cut back on production, some distilleries (Tobermory) stopping altogether until more rain falls.

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Drop Dead Gorgeous!

Yesterday we returned to boat with customary sprig of heather from the hill, to show we had sailed past Ardnamurchan Point (most westerly point on British mainland you will remember) and tied it to the pulpit, just to make sure that Follyfin did not feel left out.

Another wonderfully calm sea as we embarked from Eigg. Only downside to this settled spell of weather is that there is no wind for sailing. Still you can't have everything ... the overnight rain had cleared and the low cloud lifted as we headed back towards Glenuig Bay on the mainland. Suddenly, around 12.30, a Minke whale surfaced about 35 metres from the boat and swam near us for several minutes - a majestic sight - but unfortunately did not surface long enough for a photo. Anchored in Glenuig for lunch and a quick trip ashore to the excellent smokery recommended by our very own local guides. Then we were off again, south this time for a special visit to Loch Moidart and its Castle Tioram, a picturesque ruin, which stands on a tidal islet within the inner loch. [Our tour guides informed us that the main island in this loch - Shona- is owned by none other than Richard Branson's sister.] Correct timing of entry to this sea loch was vital as the tide 'fetches' in and out at great speed and even in a moderate wind can stop a yacht under power. In addition the entry channel is strewn with rocks so accurate pilotage is essential. The anxiety associated with these challenges was well worth it though - it is probably the most beautiful anchorage we will ever experience, and certainly the most beautiful so far on this trip.

Anchored by 17.45, wasted no time in getting the dinghy out and going ashore to explore the ruin. Castle Tioram (pronounced Cheerum) was built by Macdonald of Clanranald in the 14th century, and was once home to the clan chief Allan of Clanranald, who ordered it to be burnt when he left for the Jacobite rebellion in 1715, in order to prevent it falling into arch enemy Campbell hands.

Then, in the warm evening sunshine, we ventured along the delightful rocky path along the south shore of the loch, known as the Silver Trail.

Back on board, we dined on deck at 21.00 still enjoying the evening sun. A simple of meal of delicious hot-smoked salmon, 'caught' earlier in the day, new potatoes and salad followed by equally delicious smoked cheeses (from guess where). What more could one wish for?

Arose just after dawn to capture the castle in a different light,

and then we were off early, to catch the 'slack' tide through the maze of rocks at the entrance. It is another wonderful morning, also being enjoyed by the resident seal colony, of which we saw about 20 individuals large and small.

Now heading north again towards Inverie Bay, via Mallaig to restock with water and provisions. Sea birds and seals viewed in profusion as we go. We are even managing to sail today in only 5 knots of wind as it is in the right direction. It's slow but very peaceful!

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Ahoy from Eigg

Leaving Tobermory and its numerous jellyfish behind,

Follyfin then headed west first, to exit from the Sound of Mull. Only trouble was that the wind was (once again) on the nose, so it was a question of tacking back and forth (known as beating) into wind, whilst also negotiating the fast and numerous local ferries.

You have to watch out for them because they sure don't look out for small fry like us! At 13.05 we rounded the most westerly point in mainland Britain - Ardnamurchan Point.

Dropping anchor in Sanna Bay a little further on, we marvelled at the wonderful scenery we were passing through. Surrounded by islands and high peaks on the islands and mainland, ŵe could not wish for a more scenic area through which to cruise. And the sun now shining and wind now in our favour as we turned east, we counted ourselves extremely lucky. Then carefully felt our way into Arisaig harbour up a narrow and rocky channel where we dropped anchor in perfectly calm conditions on a wonderful sunny evening. Our Canal crew Sylvia and Colin had kindly invited us to their Holiday Station (aka Beesdale) for evening meal, showers and use of washing machine - all most welcome. They joined us on Monday morning as local tour guides, and off we set towards the island of Eigg, on a perfectly calm morning in full sun, but unfortunately no wind. You can see An Sgurr, the 'peak' on Eigg, in the background below.

Anchored just off the beach and set off up the hill ... Follyfin all alone at anchor.

And this is the view from the top ... in fact we had magnificent 360 degree view to the Outer Hebrides, Rum, Muck, Coll, Skye and the mainland. Wonderful!

All in all it was a fantastic day, finished off by both members of the hardier sex taking a dip off the boat on return. Brrrr, it was cold but oh so refreshing!

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Amongst the Western Isles of Scotland

Well we survived the gales in Oban ... actually on the island of Kerrara just off the coast. Fortunately the marina there operates an hourly 'taxi' service to the mainland, so we were able to get over to the town the same afternoon as we arrived and visit Mr T. for a mid-voyage re-provisioning shop. Mind you, when one only has Shanks's pony for transport, one becomes far more circumspect over optional luxuries (... that delicious red wine, this luscious fruit juice, not forgetting that excellent value 6-pack of Ruddles etc. etc.).
The following day, Friday, we caught an early taxi to town again as I needed a haircut. Found Flora - I was taken by her shopfront and what a happy chance! In fact it was Audrey who attended to my wayward locks and a brilliant job she made of it too, even to the point of giving me some helpful hints to pass on to my hairdresser back home. Somehow though, I don't think Yorkshire Tracey would take kindly if I were to say in mid-cut "now Audrey from Oban says..."!
Whilst in Oban, we took the opportunity to visit The Oban Distillery (no surprises there then). The guided tour was most interesting. And not only were we then treated to a wee dram at the end of the tour, plus a complimentary Oban whisky glass but we also tasted some of the over-proof spirit (65%) direct from a barrel. Very strong!

Back on board Follyfin, we enjoyed fresh fish for dinner from brilliant fishmonger on Oban pier (recommended by none other than Audrey): prawn tails as starter, followed by fresh sea bream. Delicious!
Forecast has improved and wind died down somewhat though still raining. So determined not to waste any more time in the fleshpots of Oban, we set off at 11.30 this morning, Saturday, in order to catch the north-west-going tide up the Sound of Mull. Perfect NE force 5-7 wind for sailing but quite rough until we had crossed the Firth of Lorn and the southern end of the Lynn of Morvern. Sped past Duart Point with its ruined castle looking very dour under the grey sky, and then once we had passed into the Sound of Mull, the sea calmed down.

The tide was with us all the way up the Sound and even though we did not have full sail up (as wind was gusting to 30 m.p.h.), a maximum boat speed of nearly 10 knots was achieved ... and that is fast for a sailing vessel! By tea time we reached the highly picturesque fishing town of Tobermory, on the NE coast of the island of Mull, where we are now tied up to a swinging mooring. [Much better pics are shown at the above website link.]

Tomorrow we plan to round Ardnamurchan Point, bound for Arisaig where we rendez-vous again with our former Canal Crew, Sylvia and Colin. They have been taking time out at their holiday 'station' but will join us for a few more days on a short cruise round the so-called Small Isles of Rum, Eigg and Muck (those names again ... wonderful!).

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