Apologies for brief blog break ... this blogger needed to recharge her batteries in Padstow, or Padstein as it is currently nicknamed. The last passage around Lands End was exciting but tiring. Exciting because just an hour and a half after slipping the lines at St. Michael's Mount, almost at the Runnel Stone buoy, Follyfin was joined by a school of porpoises, about 20 of them, swimming alongside and under the boat from side to side for about 5 minutes. What a sight, adults and babies, we felt privileged to have them for company even for such a short period. Then, just over an hour later, on the approach to Land's End, a basking shark allowed us a brief glimpse of its enormous body before retreating to the depths. So good to know these creatures are still around in UK waters.
Back to Padstein: it seems that Rick has bought up most of the town and certainly all the fish, so much so that if you want to buy fresh fish, you have to go to his shop, and if you want red meat - heaven forfend - there is no longer a butcher in town; you have to trek 2 miles uphill to see Mr Tesco. Dear old Rick seems to have cornered many other markets in town too, from pasties, to deli, to hotel, to fish and chips, to restaurants, cafes and souvenirs shops. Not sure if he was also responsible for the National Lobster Hatchery being sited here in Padstow as well. If he was, then well done. 'Spose he has brought a lot of commerce to the town too. Both Tuesday and Wednesday this week it was full of people, seemingly just coming for the food as weather was not that great. It's still a lovely little harbour though. Follyfin on extreme left, the old Custom House in centre.
Whilst here we decided to walk to Wadebridge along the Camel Trail - that's the river variety, not ship of the desert variety for the geographically challenged reader - a good 5 miles each way (no wonder everyone else was on bikes).
The trail runs along the west bank of the estuary and is a delight, being host to many wild flowers, including many wild orchids which I dare say the cyclists missed, so that was some compensation for the tired legs. Also many birds feed on the drying sand and mud banks as the tide ebbs.
In Wadebridge sampled excellent pasty and a beer aptly named 'Doom Bar' after the drying sand bank that bars vessels travelling in or out of the river at any time apart from 2 hours either side of high tide.
View of actual Doom Bar at low tide.
Later yesterday afternoon, a local man to whom we had chatted when we first arrived here on Monday called in and asked if we wanted some fish. He had been out all day and caught a load of pollock, of which he forced 3 on us. Almost as good as catching them ourselves, and doubly good to have bypassed Rick on this occasion!
As I write this we are on a foggy passage across the Bristol Channel. Already we have been joined several times by lots of dolphins and porpoises, making the otherwise dull 12-15 hour crossing bearable. Also sighted puffins, gannets and guillemots on excursions from nearby Lundy Island we presume.
And now we have arrived, yes we are in Wales - on a swinging mooring in Dale Bay near the entrance to Milford Haven. Relaxing day tomorrow exploring local islands and expecting to arrive in Fishguard on Saturday.
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